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Andros
373 sq. miles, 69 miles (111 km.) east of Piraeus
The largest and the most northerly island in the Cyclades, Andros was known in ancient times as "Hydrousa," meaning abundant water and its therapeutic springs have attracted many throughout the ages. The springs, whose source may be the Evian Mountains, according to geologists, keep the valleys and hillsides lush and blooming with flowers all year round. The northern part of Andros resembles the starkness of the other Cycladic islands, however, its barren mountains flank a wide, verdant valley that divides the island. It is the most fertile of the Cyclades, producing olive trees, citrus fruit, and sweeping with pines, Cyprus and plane trees. Green hills, vineyards, terraced valleys, gorges, and stone walls stretch across the countryside, along with the remnants of the Venetian occupation, the "peristereone" or dovecots (pigeon towers) which dot the landscape. It’s ideal for those who love to walk or hike. On the coast, steep cliffs contrast to sandy beaches at the mouths of valleys.
Inhabited as early as the Mycenaean period (1400 to 1200 B.C.-Late Cycladic) Dionysos was once worshipped there and the most important finds date from the ninth century B.C. and the late Geometric period (900 to 700 B.C) at the time that Zagora was the capitol. The island had a philosophical school and was an important center of learning for Byzantines until 1202 A.D. The Crusaders passed through briefly and the Venetians occupied it from 1207 to 1536 A.D. The Ottomans occupied it sporadically from 1416 A.D. and later the island was invaded by the Genoese, Albanians, and even the Russians and finally became part of Greece during the War of Independence in 1821.
The sparse but prosperous island is home to seamen, captains, ship builders and shipping magnates. Being so close to Athens it is a weekend or holiday escape for many Athenians who have built summer homes and villas across the island. As well as the modern, palatial residences of ship owners, there are still unspoilt, picturesque villages with cobblestones. And even though the island is not geared for tourism (during the week of August 15th it may be difficult to find a room) the people of Andros are quite hospitable.
Boats dock at the main port of Gavrion on the northwest coast. Ferry service operates from Rafina (near the airport, outside of Athens) and neighboring islands. It’s close to pleasant beaches and nearby is the Tower of Agios Petros (St. Peter), an interesting archaeological site from the fourteenth century B.C.
Batsi, eight km south, is on a curve of a lovely bay with fishing harbors, sandy beaches, and calm seas and is walking distance to some charming villages like Korthi on the bay of Korthiou. Naturists would enjoy the beach at Delavoyias.
Andros town or "Hora" on the east coast, situated on a rocky peninsula between two bays was built by shipping families. Typically Cycladic houses on narrow and winding alleyways and streets paved in marble and slate from local quarries sit alongside nineteenth century
Neo-classical mansions, pretty churches and elaborate squares with fountains that have the distinct touch of Venetian, Ottoman, and Byzantine influences and make this a charmingly memorable town. Within it are the ruins of Mesa Kastro (inside castle), a Venetian fort partly destroyed by bombs in World War II and Kato Kastro (lower castle), a medieval city.
The Archaeological Museum houses finds from the ancient capital of Paleopolis (south of Batsi), including the "Hermes of Andros' and finds from Geometric, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods. The Museum of Modern Art, internationally renowned, features works of Greek artists of the twentieth century. Contemporary exhibits are sponsored throughout the summer from July to September showcasing the works of great artists such as Picasso, Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec, Chagall, as well as temporary exhibits by distinguished artists. Both museums were established by Vassilis and Elise Goulandris, of the prominent shipping family.
North of Andros town on the east coast lies the nineteenth century village of Stenies, built by shipping magnates and is perhaps the most beautiful and wealthiest of the towns, abundant with fragrant floral life. Further north on the coast, Vori boasts a clean, romantic setting with several shipwrecks on view.
Apikia, inland from "Hora," is the village which bottles the Sariza brand mineral water; "Sariza" comes from the ancient Greek meaning "arrow" because it could "break stones" and is still recommended for kidney ailments.
South and west of "Hora" are lush, verdant river valleys beckoning hikers. The road to the west has impressive views but bikers beware that the strong winds of the meletemi in July make it dangerous. Further inland, above the green valley luxurious with trees, bordered by characteristic stone walls lies the village of Menites where springs gush out from the rocks. The Orthodox church of the Panagia Koumoulos (Virgin Plentiful) may have been the ancient site of a temple of Dionysos.
The Medieval village of Messaria nearby celebrates the nine day long Feast of the Virgin Mary, starting on August 15th at the twelfth century church of Taxiarchis. An hours walk away, the tenth century monastery, Moni Panakhrandou, which guards the relics of St. Panteleimon, stands with its massive walls on a cliff, a gorgeous view of the valley below towards Andros town.
Mountainous and rocky terrain define the southern part of the island; the stone walls and peristereone create a typically Cycladic countryside. Zagora, on the southwest coast, was a Geometric town that was excavated in the 1970s and found to have nothing built on top of it. A stunning view from the barren summit, with cliffs that drop down on three sides, makes a dramatic impression.
As with any other greek island, good food, fish tavernas, music, relaxation, and the hospitality of a warm people await the traveler on Andros, a low key, non-commercial island with much to offer.
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